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Netsuke : small treasures, big stories

Updated: Jun 30


Netsuke, small Japanese sculptures that are both functional and artistic, have captivated art and culture lovers for centuries. From being fashionable clothing accessories in Japan during the Edo period, they have become collector's items prized the world over. Carved from materials such as wood, ivory and bone, they tell stories and embody the essence of Japanese tradition.


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Netsuke, Japan, 19th century, conserved at the MET, New York


Since the 17th century, the Japanese have worn the kimono, a T-shaped garment tightened at the waist by a belt called an obi. To compensate for the lack of pockets, women hid their small belongings in the wide sleeves of their kimono, while men, whose sleeves were relatively narrow, used to attach their personal belongings to their obi with a cord. These hanging objects are called sagemono. Purses, medicine boxes (inro), writing utensils (yatate), tobacco pouches and even sake bowls were all attached to belts. Netsuke served as anchors and counterweights to prevent them from falling off.

 

It would seem that the first netsuke were particularly sober and purely utilitarian. But throughout the Edo period, netsuke underwent a major expansion. With the advent of a strict division of society into four classes: warriors, farmers, craftsmen and merchants, netsuke became the means to compete in luxury and show off one's wealth. For example, merchants, who were economically better off, commissioned ivory netsuke with increasingly sophisticated and refined designs to reflect their level of wealth, without violating the sumptuary laws that regulated the types of houses they could build or the fabrics they could wear.


Netsuke were therefore designed not only for their functional ability to carry objects, but also as markers of wealth.


From the Meiji era onwards, Japan opened up to the Western world, and the kimono was gradually abandoned in favor of more functional Western clothing with pockets. As a result, netsuke lost their usefulness and went from being functional and fashionable accessories to artefacts


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Netsuke, Japan, 19th century, conserved at the MET, New York

 

The netsuke is a small object with two small holes called “himotoshi” through which the rope can be passed to transport the object. It's worth noting that many real netsuke have so-called “natural” himotoshi, cavities naturally formed by the subject of the work.


Also, most of them are made from traditional materials such as animal or marine ivory, and various varnished, painted or lacquered woods. And although more residual, we find them in porcelain, lacquer, metal, leather, rough stone and even amber.


The shapes, too, are diversifying : netsuke take on the appearance of animals, mythological characters, plants or even everyday objects. The absence of government control over their production allowed them to develop a pronounced taste for erotic and satirical subjects. Any shape can be considered, as long as it's a small object with two himotoshi.

Toutefois, on distingue plusieurs types de netsuke. Les plus communs sont appelés Katabori netsuke, ce sont de petites sculptures en trois dimensions représentant des personnages, animaux et plantes. On trouve aussi les Manju netsuke qui se démarquent par leur forme arrondie et plate et qui portent un décor gravé sur une face. Enfin, on peut évoquer les Sashi netsuke, qui sont longs et plats afin de pouvoir être glissés sous la ceinture.

 

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Boar and grasses, Japan, second-half of the 19th century, conserved at the MET, New York - Katabori netsuke

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                Netsuke, Japan, 19th century, conserved at the MET,  New York - Manju netsuke


Ultimately, netsuke embody the ingenuity and refined craftsmanship of the Japanese, while reflecting their attachment to tradition and aesthetics. Their timeless charm continues to captivate collectors and art enthusiasts the world over.


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