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Japanese kimonos : silk drapes and printed stories

 The Japanese kimono, a symbol of elegance and tradition, embodies the very essence of Japanese culture. This garment, with its unique cut and refined motifs, is much more than a simple adornment: it reflects a rich history and a profound respect for ancestral customs. It's an exploration of a culture that celebrates beauty, precision and tradition in a garment.


"Woman in a black kimono", Katsukawa Shunsho, Japan, 1783 - 1789, conserved at the MET, New York


The kimono as we know it today was once called a kosode. First introduced under Chinese influence during the Nara period (710-794), this garment served as an undergarment, worn under a loose-fitting jacket and wide pants for men, or a skirt for women. It was during the Heian period (794-1185) that the kimono began to stand out for its refined allure, and it was finally at the start of the Edo period (1603-1868), an era of peace and prosperity, that it became more accessible and popular. The upper classes used it to flaunt their wealth and taste. Henceforth, it became an emblematic Japanese garment, playing a unifying role within the Japanese archipelago.


However, from the second half of the 19th century, Western influence began to affect the wearing of the kimono. Government officials, civil servants and teachers were required to wear Western clothing, and in 1940 a national uniform, the “kokumin fuku”, was declared compulsory, making the kimono obsolete.


Unlined summer kimono (Hito-e) with landscape and poems, Japan, second half of the 18th century, conserved at the MET, New York


The term “kimono”, derived from the verb to wear (kiru) and the word thing (mono), means “that which one wears on oneself”. But much more than just a garment, it is a central symbol of Japanese cultural identity, a storyteller that conveys messages about the wearer and the society in which he or she lives.


Indeed, colors and patterns have many meanings : for example, bright colors used to represent youth, while more sober ones represented maturity and refinement. Crane and turtle motifs were used to wish for longevity, while fish and plum blossom motifs evoked wealth and prosperity. Also, the fabrics and colors used and the complexity of the garment reflected the individual's social status and identity.


Today, the kimono is no longer the standard everyday garment it once was. However, it continues to be worn for special occasions and important ceremonies such as weddings, tea ceremonies and other cultural events.

 

Kimono, Japan, 19th century, conserved at the MET, New York

 

As for kimono craftsmanship, each component represents a confluence of ancestral techniques. The know-how of each reflects an artistic heritage: each stitch, fold and dye bears witness to a tradition, making it a revered symbol of art and Japan.


Traditionally, kimonos were made from luxurious silk with a refined texture and elegant drape. Dyeing varied from region to region, each with its own techniques such as the Shibori method, which involves knotting, sewing, folding, twisting or compressing the fabric to create unique and varied patterns. In terms of weaving and bordering, too, numerous techniques were used to depict landscapes and intricate patterns, giving rise to veritable works of art.


But whatever the technique used, kimono-making emphasized meticulous folding and minimal cutting, preserving the integrity of the fabric and respecting the traditional values of simplicity and conservation advocated by Japanese culture. 


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